But today, we were among a larger amount of tourists, so it was sometimes impossible to get a picture without someone bombing it.
Elephants.
Happy to be in our van!
These performers danced for the tourists and allowed photos with them for a tip.
Bayon, the temple center.
Once again, having large trees mingled in the ruins added an organic vibe that I had not experienced elsewhere and made me very happy.
The sides of the temple were extremely steep. Probably close to a 60 degree incline. And given how worn and cupped the steps had become, it was too treacherous to attempt climbing the original steps, which had become more like a chute to eject tourists. The steps were made small and steep to encourage clambering in reverence.
At the bottom, I got careless and jumped down a second step, only to lose my footing and fall on my rear, jarring my tail-bone. Fortunately, only my pride was injured. But I was cautioned to be more careful and respectful. Legend has it that those who slip and fall at these temples were spiritually unclean. :P
Having entered from the East (Victory gate) our guide walked us out the northwest side of the Angkor Thom complex to view the lesser temple mounds "Phimeanakas" instead of re-tracing our steps.
He led us along this long wall...
Down some steps...
Through this gate in the old wall...
And past this pool which is said to be used by the king's concubines to wash themselves before presenting themselves at his penthouse...
Here at his penthouse, it is said he did his nightly kingly duties with his women. From the guidebook: "Impressive laterite and sandstone pyramid. The lack of surviving carvings leaves it artistically uninteresting, but it is the tallest scalable temple in Angkor Thom, providing a nice view from the top. The wester nstaircase (at the back) is the most easily ascended. Located inside the ancient Roal Palace compound, Phimeanakas serves as the King's temple. Legend has it that the golden tower crowned the temple and was inhabited by a serpent which would transform into a woman. The kinds of Angkor were required to make love with the serpent every night, lest disaster befall him or the kingdom."
We were simply grateful for coconuts which we bargained down to US$1 each.
Ian: "The temple carvings were elaborate and beautiful but monotonous. What I really liked about the temples is the few large scale carvings that told their history and the total grandeur and mystery of the place--when it wasn't overflowing with tourists."
Our next temple is probably the most famous because of the Tomb Raider movies: "Ta Prohm"
Right away, we could see the huge creeper trees engulfing the temple ruins. These roots look a bit like monkeys in mischief... or maybe the heat exhaustion is exacting its toll...
Monica: "Ta Prohm--the 'Tomb Raider Temple' The unique thing here is how the Sponge trees of the forest are growing over the walls of the temple.There were some really pretty root systems--and we got some lovely photos. Everywhere we go, there are lots of children and adults swarming you to sell you trinkets. They are quite persistent. It is hard to say 'no' to everyone--but I don't have enough money!"
Once again, the restoration of the ruins and hordes of tourists broke the spell frequently, and I was not near as transfixed as when I was in the other temples off the beaten track.
Each notch in the wall used to carry a jewel until raiders stole them.
Finally, the temple that is the headliner of this sprawling megaplex... "Angkor Wat" looms ahead.
Monica: "Angkor Wat--early to mid 12th century Hindu temple. Angkor is the original name of the city and Wat is the Thai word for 'temple'. This temple is HUGE! The outer ring was constructed to teach the people about the Hindu religion and Cambodian History. This temple was dedicated to the Hindu God, Vishnu. But the Buddhists now have statues of Buddha inside. The 4 cleansing pools, now dry, the view and the grand size of this temple is unique. The temple has a 5 point lotus flower "look' that is obvious when observed from the front. The large pools from the front lawn offer a beautiful reflection of the buildings. Amazing, really. The bas relief is is very detailed."
The long galleries had numerous stories to tell about gory wars, and even some sexually explicit scenes.
Once again, it required patience, tenacity and luck to capture these shots without a tourist intruding.
The sandstone is blackened with oils from fingers...
We approached the central towers of Angkor Wat.
Once again, the vertigo inducing steep climbs to the top.
Windows framed spectacular views.
The center of Angkor Wat, and thus the center of the Cambodian Universe.
Coming down was the scariest since it was often difficult to sight the steps.
Some of the original steps had broken off completely!
That's where we exit...
Coconuts and sugar cane with lemon to the rescue at the 'Terrace of the elephants'. As we came to our senses, we noticed a grill...
Monica: "Honestly, one of the best memories from here is the cute little boy selling postcards that told us the capital of Malaysia is Kuala Lumpur and a wonderful lady who sold sugarcane juice with lime. It tasted so good!"
With mystery meat. What the heck--YOLO!
Finally, as we exited to find our van, our guide pointed out bullet holes and grenade scars left from the Kmer War.
Uncle Heng treated us to a French Creole Restaurant who graciously took us in despite having no reservations on a very busy night.Aria: "Uncle Heng was so nice! He brought us the Georges which is the first French Restaurant I have been to. I had a Dory Fish Fillet--it was amazing! I love how 'Sebastian' (maitre 'd) presented the menu by reciting it and recommended some items."
Ian: "The food was amazing. Average of 3.8 stars as long as we were with Uncle Heng, that is. Otherwise we wouldn't know where to go and what to look for."
Exquisite French fusion at unpretentious cafe prices--US$3-4 for appetizers
Main Courses for US$6-7
Next, we went down the touristy Pub Street to sample chicken kebabs (US$2), Banana and Nutella Pancakes (US$1) and Som Thum without the brined crabs (US$1)
We really liked the kebabs and could have eaten it for every meal!
~ Shien
